May 7, 2011

The first week of May was our community retreat in Tortugas, a lazy beach town that at this time of year was barely populated; a real escape from the bustle of Chimbote. It was just us, our retreat leader Sr. Katy (an Incarnate Word sister from Peru in her twenties) the constant sound of the waves crashing on the shore line, sea birds and working fisherman. The whole retreat was in Spanish which was a welcomed challenge for all of us. The format was guided prayer with bible readings and questions for reflection. The dimensions of reflection were on a personal level, spiritual, community, missionary and congregational. As a community, we have returned with a renewed sense of vision of how we would like to make the most of the next three months. On a personal level, I am finishing the journey as I started, in faith, that I am where I need to be and to follow God.

Three months! I can feel the sands in the hourglass starting to fall. Like the waves in Tortugas, it is a constant and unceasing flow. I will be home soon. I have already started to communicate with the nurse/ missionary that will be coming to Chimbote in hopes to give her a head start and ease her transition into the culture.

Before I started my journey as a missionary, one of the things that gave me a good mental picture of the town was reading Todd’s blog entry (a 2007-2009 missionary) of things he will miss about Chimbote and things he will not. Below is my list that I hope will serve the same purpose for the incoming missionaries who are both from Texas! (whoot!)

Things I have learned to live with but I will not miss:

Trash in the streets. A huge problem. People sweep in front of their house twice a day for this reason.

Public urination. You can encounter it anywhere, anytime. I have seen it so much, I am at the point where I barely notice it anymore.

Dirt. It gets into everything in just a matter of hours. Hats off to all those who fight it and clean everyday, twice a day. I surrendered a long time ago. I liked Sr. Katy’s reflection on retreat that we are all dust, and only God can make something of us.

Bergonia wine. Not a personal favorite of mine. We encounter it at parties. If you go in thinking grape juice with a kick you may not be disappointed. Very sweet and acidic. It burns inside the chest. I think my housemates would probably list it as a pro – they like it. Sharing a common cup at parties is an adjustment as well. It is something you have to decide if you will partake in. Most will pass around any alcohol with a communal cup. This is very practical because it controls the rate of consumption and is more economical. Missionary life is not for the germ-a-phobic.

The standard Peruvian diet of carbs, sugar and oil. It has been hell on a body in its thirties. Oil: We go through a 1 liter bottle of cooking oil every month in the house. Back in the states I might have gone through a one liter bottle over a span of two years. Street food of course is loaded because it is prepared in a vat of oil. Carbs: The standard plate at a restaurant/menu bought for the main meal of the day would be a soup with noodles or potatoes in it , then the main course which is plate of 2 cups of rice with or without noodles and potatoes and 2 ounces of meat. No vegetables, maybe a small salad which consists of onions, tomatoes and lettuce. Breads ( white dinner rolls) are sold on just about every street corner. Most purchase it by the half dozen in the morning and at night which is often served with butter, avocado, cheese or a fried egg. Sugar: You encounter sugar the most in drinks. One to two cups of sugar will go into a blender of juiced fruit.

Lack of easy access to exercise for a single female. This also probably falls under personal safety and unwanted attention. Peruvian men on the street do not always have a filter between what they are thinking and what comes out of their mouth. It has not always been safe to run alone or go to a small local gym by myself. The amount of dogs in the street is a big deterrent as well. There are probably over thirty dogs in the street between my house and hospice.

The excitement of public transportation. Feeling like a sardine in a public van or traveling in a vehicle that makes a hard right turn from the far left lane in the thick of traffic – I admire their guts. Bumpy roads that cause cell phones and coin purses to bounce out of pockets. A piece of advice for the new missionaries: it is very helpful to have pockets with zippers to avoid this problem and to avoid being pick-pocketed.

Slow walkers. The personal rhythm of those walking in the street is much slower than that of the average foreigner. Most are really not in a hurry to get anywhere. It is not a very punctual culture. I imagine one walks slower so one does not miss an opportunity to say hello to acquaintances. Relationships are more of a priority than respect for someone’s time.

Lack of professional and social contacts my age and lack of personal space. Being an introvert in an extroverted culture. This is very much a culture that thinks you should never be alone nor should you want to be alone. It has been a good challenge and in many ways has saved me from becoming more of myself but for the brief periods of times I have encountered professionals and friends of like mind in Peru, I have realized how much I am living outside of my element and how much I miss that contact.

The rare earthquake or Tsunami warning, lack of protective gear on the job, taking cold showers, having boiling water before you can drink it, washing my laundry twice a week by hand, sweeping the water out of the house on the rare occasion it does rain and the fish factory smell of Chimbote all come with the territory, you can learn to live with it. FYI: The fish factory smell, the hallmark of Chimbote, is not a constant and it helps to think of it as a positive for the economy.

You may think at this point I have no positives but I do! I apologize if the above list came across as critical. There are plenty of things I have come to enjoy unique to Peru and Chimbote that outshine the negative and I know will miss once I am back in the States.

Things I will miss:

The excitement of living in a foreign culture. It’s an adventure, a good challenge and a life changing experience I am grateful for to the IW sisters. Peru has a very rich heritage.

Peruvian music. Specifically salsa and criolla. I love the fun rhythms, style and instrumentation.

Buying food from a fresh open market. Dos de Mayo market is huge, the size of two or three football fields and full of anything and everything living or dead you could want to cook. There is a tremendous variety of potatoes, beans, flour and exotic fruit I have not seen elsewhere in the world. Open daily.

Peruvian cuisine. Not something we can always afford but love it when it comes our way. Ceviche, Lomo Saltado, Ají de Gallina, pescado frito; the list is endless. All are distinct delicious dishes. I have enjoyed learning how to make them too. The various types of salsas/ Ají are unique to Peru. Got to love the spice!

The small town feel in Chimbote. The people are very warm, inviting and helpful. I did not find this in Lima. It is nice having people to stop and talk to. You will run into people you know every time you leave the house. Also, it is nice knowing the people you buy from in the shops or the market.

Siestas and fiestas. The lunch hours are usually 2 or 3 hours long so plenty of space to take a nap. Most places are closed so accomplishing something at this time is very difficult. Enjoy, you might as well take a snooze. Fiestas seem to happen every week. Peru loves to celebrate life.

The slower pace. Yes, there is greatness to my lateness and it fits in just fine here where it is not unusual to start something anywhere from an hour to half an hour later than appointed. You will rarely hear anyone say “I am so stressed.” If something doesn’t happen, no one seems to have a problem; they just decide to do something else instead and quickly forget about what they originally planned.

Being near the ocean and the mountains. I can look up anywhere in the city and see the mountains. The ocean never fails to take my breath away. The ocean is only a twenty minute walk from the house. We are also only a thirty to 45 minute drive to three beaches.

Being in a country where 99% of the men enjoy dancing and dance well. I know I will miss this. Salsa is fun and they all dance with such class. I love to watch the national dance the marinera, it is so playful.

The moderate climate. Never having to cancel my plans because of the weather. It doesn’t snow here and rarely even sprinkles.

Wearing flip flops just about everywhere I go.

Being in a country where the men consider me attractive even when I am in dire need of a shower after leaving the gym. All I have to say is the grass is always greener on the other side.

Being part of a community that has a spiritual center and does meaningful work.

Being called “Marcelita” at work. I find it very endearing. After a while you can just feel the love implied when it is spoken.

The friendships I have formed in my mission sites. I am haunted now contemplating my return and how my reality is going to change with just one bus trip and one or two airplane flights but their reality will not.